Hand BookHand Book
The complete pool care and problem solving booklet Making it easy to maintain crystal clear, healthy and algae free pool water at a fraction of the cost.
INTRODUCTION
Surprisingly the water we drink from our taps may not be good enough for our pools. Tap water can have high or low pH levels. It can have too much or too little calcium and carbonates. It can have high levels of iron and other minerals that can cause stains, scale, and corrosion. Improper levels of pH, minerals and organic matter can and often will prevent pool chemicals from doing their work in the water.
The suitability of water for swimming pool use depends on its quality. Water quality is determined by the amounts and kinds of suspended and dissolved substances; the degree of acidity or alkalinity; temperature; color and transparency; taste and smell; and the presence of undesirable microorganisms. All natural waters contain dissolved inorganic and organic substances. The total dissolved-solids burden of pool water may be as high as 2000 parts per million (ppm), the majority of dissolved solids are calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium, sulfate, chloride, carbonate, bicarbonate, and silica. Many pollutants may also be found in solution. These may be excessive amounts of substances normally present, such as nitrates, phosphates, and certain metals, or they may be materials not naturally found, such as pesticides, poisons and agricultural remedies. Suspended sediment is an important constituent of water quality, because it affects light penetration, and makes water undesirable for swimming. Sediment is also linked to other water-quality factors because pesticides, phosphates, and bacteria may be attached to sediment particles. Fecal-coliform bacteria in water are an important index of bacteria. Water temperature is important because it influences the metabolic rate of aquatic organisms and the rates of chemical reactions.
Fortunately for our pool owners we only need to apply a few basic procedures to have crystal clear, healthy algae free water year after year. (See “Pool Maintenance”)
To make the most of your pool a basic understanding of the volume of water, filtration and factors that influence pool water, like rain, wind, temperature, number of swimmers (bathing load), etc. is essential. Volume of water The volume of water in a pool can be roughly calculated as follows: Use a tape measure and measure in meters. If a tape measure is not available then by counting the number of steps to measure the pool ( each step = one meter ) and using an average depth of 1,5 meters you may calculate a surprisingly accurate volume of pool water. Rectangular or square pools Maximum length X maximum width X average depth X 1000 = number of liters. Oval or round pools Maximum length X maximum width X average depth X 785 = number of liters. A small pool contains 20 000 to 40 000 liters of water. A medium pool contains 50 000 to 60 000 liters of water. A large pool contains 70 000 to 100 000 liters of water.
Filtration Filtration involves the removal of dust, leaves, algae (live and dead), dirt, body oils, other organic matter, suntan lotions etc. from the pool. If pool water is not filtered enough or adequately then an excess of pool chemicals must be used to maintain the pool and even then the pool water will tend to be problematic. The amount of filtering needed varies according to the size of the pool, the condition of the filter, the condition of the pool cleaner, the bathing load (number of swimmers using the pool), the weather -- , wind, rain, sunshine, and the neighboring territory – nearby factories, open sandy ground, highways or airports. Size of the pool For a medium size pool the filter should run 12 hours out of every 24. For a small pool 8 hours of filtering time is generally enough and for a large pool the filter should run for 14 to 16 hours out of every 24. These running times are for summer and can be halved for winter.
Condition of the filter The pressure of the water returning into the pool during normal filtration should feel quite strong when you try to block the return jet with your hand. Note: If there is more than 1 return jet then by blocking one with your hand the water will just divert to the other jet, so here two people may be required. One person to block one jet and the other to feel the force of the water. If the water force is weak and the jet can be blocked easily with your hand then the filter may be seriously clogged up and in need of very urgent cleaning -- to prevent all sorts of water complications. Note : It is possible, although rare, for the filter to have very little or no sand in it and then a strong force of water will be felt and give us a wrong impression of the filter condition. Another indication of a clogged dirty filter is when the automatic pool cleaner moves slowly or stops easily and needs frequent back washing. Note: Worn leaking pool cleaner pipes and fittings must be checked and replaced as they may be causing the pool cleaner to stop easily although the filter may be OK. If the filtration system is not in tip-top condition then extra filtering time should be allowed ( as much as continuous -24hour- filtering until the problem is solved ) The filtration and back washing of pool water is of utmost importance and should never be neglected. With regular back washing and topping up of pool water we partly replace the water and this helps to control the level of dissolved solids in the pool ---- ''filtration and back washing of pools is like exercise for humans''
Condition of the pool cleaner The pool cleaner should be checked approximately every 6 months for wear and leaking pipes. Any defects should be rectified according to the manufacturers directions. Leaking pipes allow air into the system which in turn feeds the algae growing in the sand filter and also reduces the efficiency of the filtration.
The bathing load On entering the pool an average person introduces a multitude of organisms, body oils, skin flakes, suntan lotions, etc. to the pool water. Now when there are many people using the pool in a short period of time the water will contain a high amount of impurities. These must be removed and the water disinfected in order to maintain a clear, healthy pool. If the filter normally runs for 12 hours per day and there has been a pool party with numerous swimmers, you could run the filter continuously during the party. After the party the filter should be back washed, the pump set to run 24 hours, 2 or 3 cups of chlorine added to the weir. After 24 hours the filter should be back washed again and set back onto the usual filtering time.
The weather Most swimming pools are outdoors. Algae spores, dust, dirt and chemicals are easily carried by the wind and constantly deposited in the pool. The stronger the wind, the more it can carry so during strong winds your swimming pool collects more wind borne impurities than during light or no winds. Rain collects nitrogen and carbon dioxide on its way down from the clouds and lands in your pool. Nitrogen and carbon dioxide are the best possible fertilizers for algae in swimming pools. They are such good fertilizers that they may cause pool water to turn from blue to green in a matter of hours and this can explain the pools that suddenly turn green after rain storms. In some cases lightning strikes a pool, upsets the chemical balance and pools may turn green, but generally the water would soon be turning green anyway and the rain simply speeded up the process. Sunshine warms up the pool water and is needed for plant and algae growth. At the same time sunlight dramatically shortens the time that chlorine can remain in pool water. Hence chlorine should only be added in the evenings. From this brief look at how the weather can affect a pool it is clear that during windy, rainy and hot weather the pool water needs extra filtration and the chemicals in the pool - especialy chlorine, get used up much faster than normal.
Neighboring territory The neighboring territory will determine what type of dust, dirt, chemicals, etc. can be deposited in your pool. In built up residential areas, full of grass, trees, etc. the wind does not carry as much foreign matter. Pools near industrial areas are likely to collect a vast amount of gasses, chemicals, etc. Pools near highways and heavy traffic collect many impurities including lead from exhaust fumes. Pools near airports and power stations are subjected to aircraft fuel, soot, oils, dirt, etc. which can cause havoc in pools if not kept in check.
Water is highly complexed. It contains a myriad of metals, non-metals, salts, oxides, chemicals, etc. For practical reasons a basic understanding of just a few factors will enable us to take care of 95% of pool water problems. These factors are 1. pH 2.Water balance 3.Total dissolved solids 4.Bacteria.
pH is used to measure the acidity or basicity of pool water. It ranges from a pH of 1 (strongly acidic) to a pH of 14 (strongly basic or alkaline) with a pH of 7 being neutral. The action of pool chemicals is affected by the pH of the water and for this reason it is very important to control the pH correctly. A practical example : -- To kill E. coli bacteria in pools, 5 X more chlorine is needed at a pH of 8.5 than is needed if the ph is 7.0 Acid is used to lower the pH in pools and bicarbonate of soda is used to raise the pH in pools. By using these two products the pH should be maintained between 6.8 and 7.2 for the most comfortable swimming, economical use of chemicals, minimal corrosion or scaling, and undisturbed water balance.
Just as water tries to balance its level physicaly it also tries to balance itself chemicaly. Chemical balance is maintaining the essential amount of carbonates, calcium and pH so that the water has no desire to get chemical compounds from the pool cement, tile grouting, equipment, etc. When the water is balanced and at "rest" the pool chemicals can work properly and economically and hence the pool tends to be trouble free. A reasonable water balance can be achieved as follows : 1. Once a week check and control the pH between 6.8 and 7.2 by using acid or alkalinity increaser. 2. Once a month check and control the total alkalinity ( carbonate content ) between 60 and 120 ppm by using acid or alkalinity increaser once again but following instructions on the back of the "total alkalinity increaser" packs. 3. Once a season check and control the calcium hardness between 170 and 400 ppm by using calcium chloride flakes, or replacing a portion of water. Details on "calcium flakes" packs. NOTE : Marbelite pools seldom have a calcium deficiency but fibreglass, painted and vinyl pools are prone to calcium deficiencies which in turn cause "TDS dropout", stains etc. (( see total dissolved solids ))
Total dissolved solids or TDS refers to the amount of organic and inorganic matter dissolved in the water. Pool test kits do not measure TDS but by keeping a good water balance, regular back washing and adequate filtration, TDS problems can be avoided. Fiberglass, painted and vinyl pools are prone to TDS problems. This is how they happen : --- Pool water can not get any calcium from the walls of fiberglass and painted pools. When it rains, the rain water does not contain any calcium either. Now with calcium free rainwater and existing calcium being depleted by back washing the water in these pools, develops a calcium deficiency. This calcium deficiency in turn upsets the water balance and the water eventually loses its 'buoyancy'. Once the water has lost its 'buoyancy' it can no longer hold the dissolved solids in suspension and in a matter of 10 minutes all these dissolved solids can fall out of suspension and attach themselves to the pool surface --- producing a dull, gray or dirty looking pool. (( This is commonly known as TDS dropout )) Alternatively with inadequate filtration and a build up of rotten plant matter from leaves in the pool, the TDS amount may become so great that even balanced water can no longer support all the dissolved solids and again TDS dropout may occur. The trouble shooting section deals with correcting TDS problems.
Bacteria are found everywhere and about 2000 species have been identified. 30 Trillion bacteria weigh approximately 28grams or 1 ounce. There are many species that are useful to man eg. in the production of cheese, etc. and there are few in comparison that are harmful to man. The bacteria that concern the pool owner are E. coli, salmonella and staphylococcus. The E. coli being the toughest. When bacteria tests are done it is common to test for the E. coli and if they have been eliminated then it is safe to assume that the other weaker bacteria have also been eliminated. There are numerous chemicals available to control bacteria in swimming pools and in South Africa chlorine is still the most common bactericide as it has not yet been banned as in some other countries. It is estimated that as little as 0.5 ppm of chlorine is enough to control the E. coli bacteria. This is equivalent to approximately 35grams of granular chlorine in a 50 000 litre pool or 10 times less than one 300g cup of chlorine. The dangers of using excessive chlorine have been widely publicised. Bacteria is invisible to the naked eye. If left uncontrolled some forms of bacteria can double in numbers every 20 minutes and it is therefore important that a suitable bacteriacide is used regularly to prevent any growth of bacteria.
New technology is continually being developed for the disinfection and sanitisation of pool water. Although chlorine is the most commonly used disinfectant, a variety of other agents and processes are being used. These include : ozone, hydrogen peroxide, silver and copper ions, ultraviolet, bromine, etc. All of these have advantages and disadvantages. They all have their individual instructions for use, which should be followed. Humans are not water mammals and while their skins resist airborne diseases very well their skins may not cope as well with water borne diseases. Water disinfection and sanitisation should not be neglected as infectious diseases may be easily and quickly transferred through water.
The following are examples of recommended levels for chlorine in swimming pools : 0.4 mg/liter (ppm) free residual chlorine at pH 7,2 - 8,2 and low turbidity. ( Keswick et al 1981) 0.8 mg/liter free chlorine residual (Wyat and Wilson, 1979) 1.0 mg/liter free chlorine residual at pH 7,0 - 7,6 (Esterman et al , 1984) Excess chlorine is used to kill algae, bleach unsightly pool marks, oxidise organic matter. But CAUTION should be used as excess chlorine may allow formation of chloramines which in turn can add to the many serious risks of chlorine to humans, both short term and long term. ""Without wishing to be bound by theory a good way to disinfect and maintain a pool is as follows : Use just enough chlorine to disinfect the pool, 0.8 to 1 ppm, filter and backwash regularly and use an excellent non toxic non hazardous combination of an algaecide/flocculant/coagulant/bactericide. The best product suggested being POOL MAGIC 5 in 1.”” Some disadvantages of chlorine include difficulty in maintaining levels ( particularly in warm water) high enough to disinfect without causing odours, bleaching, eye and skin irritation. It is also essential to keep water turbidity at an absolute minimum because chlorine reacts with organic matter in water to form organohalogens which lead to other problems . It is important to keep the pH as close as possible to neutral (pH 7.0). This way chemicals work better and the water will be more gentle on the skin and eyes.
Practical use of chlorine Chlorine should be added into the weir of a pool with the pool cleaner unplugged so that the chlorine gets sucked into the filter and dissolves there instead of on the pool floor where it can cause damage. Chlorine is easily removed from water by sunlight and warmth and if used in water with a high pH a large part of it goes to waste. Therefore it should be checked regularly and the “free/residual” chlorine level should be kept at about 1 ppm. Chlorine should really be used with Pool Magic 5 in 1. First the Pool Magic 5 in 1 should be added as per instructions and then a small amount of chlorine is needed just to make sure that no bacteria can exist in the water. This saves on chlorine costs. It also and more importantly produces a very healthy pool because Pool Magic 5 in 1 is environment friendly and less chlorine is safer for children and pets.
When filling new pools it is advisable to have the water tested for mineral content at a pool service centre. If the mineral content is high (above 2 ppm) anti-staining products or alum powder should be used to reduce the risk of staining. In a new pool (plaster, marbelite and tiled pools) it is important to keep the pH between 7.4 and 7.8 to prevent erosion of the new pool surface until it sets hard. (Your pool builder should advise you on this because if you do not follow given specifications you may void any guarantee or builders liability for damage to the pool.) Most reputable pool builders will fill and supervise the treatment of new pools. Wherever possible, always fill new pools to correct level then adjust the pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness before adding other pool chemicals. While concrete and marbelite pool surfaces are hardening, the use of automatic pool cleaners and wheeled vacuum cleaners may compress surface sediment into the pores of the walls and floors of the pool which can then form stain areas. Do not use Pool Magic 5 in 1 in new pools because pool builders at times neglect to advise their customers that their new marbelite pools often develop stains that the builders are responsible for and they would much prefer to pass the buck and try to blame the Pool Magic 5 in 1 ---- thereby aggravating our company and their customer.
And now for the practical easy part…..
THE GOLDEN RULES : 1. Keep the filtration system clean, in good condition and run the filter long enough to cope with the amount of filtering that the water demands. In other words, increase the filtering time when there is a lot of rain, wind, heat and swimming. 2. Weekly backwash the sandfilter, thoroughly. 3. Weekly check and correct the pH. 4. Monthly check and correct the total alkalinity. 5. Bi-annualy Check and correct the calcium hardness in fibreglass, painted and vinyl pools.
Pool maintenance varies according to pool size and water condition , so we can look at some common water conditions seperately :
a) Typical clean clear pool water . The filter, filtering time, pool cleaner, pipes, pH and total alkalinity are all correct -- we assume.
1. Run the filter 12 hours per day in summer for medium size pools, longer for larger pools and shorter for smaller pools. 2. Check and correct the pH weekly. Keep it between 6.8 and 7.2 . 3. Check and correct the total alkalinity monthly or after heavy rainfall. Keep it between 80 and 120 ppm. 4. Backwash the sand filter weekly. Always clean the leaf baskets, unplug the pool cleaner from the weir and remove the vacuum plate (if any) before backwashing, to ensure the maximum flow of water for backwashing. 5. Add chemicals as per instructions on packs or containers. Remember to compensate for heavy swim loads or rains etc.
b) Cloudy / murky water. CLOUDY WATER
Could indicate early signs of algae growth. Could be as a result of high pH. Could be as a result of high total alkalinity. Could be an excessive amount of TDS (total dissolved solids) in the water. Could be insufficient or inadequate filtration.
Do the following:
1.Clean the sand filter thoroughly. ----- Ordinary back washing is not enough. If the sand filter has not been opened in the past 6 months and the sand manually cleaned or changed, then do an open backwash (see appendix) or if this is not possible use the "Pool Magic Filter sand cleaner" to clean the filter. It is probably NOT necessary to change the sand. 2. Adjust the pH to between 6.8 and 7.2 3. Adjust the total alkalinity to between 80 and 120 ppm. 4. Add one pack of "Pool Magic Monthly treatment"(for every 50 000 to 60 000 liters of water) to the weir with the 'now clean' filter running on 'filter'. 5. Filter continuously for 24 hours, do a normal backwash, filter for another 24 hours, backwash again, and continue this filtering / back washing until the water clears up. Then run the filter on the usual 12 hour cycle.
GREEN MURKY WATER
Usually caused by green floating algae that has been allowed to develop due to -- High pH -- Low total alkalinity -- Heavy rains -- Heavy swimming load -- Insufficient chemicals -- Clogged dirty filter -- Insufficient filtration
Do the following :
1.Clean the sand filter thoroughly. ----- Ordinary back washing is not enough. If the sand filter has not been opened in the past 6 months and the sand manually cleaned or changed, then do an open backwash (see appendix) or if this is not possible use the "Pool Magic Filter sand cleaner" to clean the filter. It is probably NOT necessary to change the sand. 2. Adjust the pH to between 6.8 and 7.2 3. Adjust the total alkalinity to between 80 and 120 ppm. 4. Add 3 cups of chlorine (for every 50 000 to 60 000 liters of water) to the weir with the 'now clean' filter running on 'filter'. 5. After 30 minutes, add one pack of "Pool Magic Monthly treatment"(for every 30 000 to 40 000 liters of water) to the weir with the filter still running on 'filter'. 6. Filter continuously for 24 hours, do a normal backwash, filter for another 24 hours, backwash again, and continue this filtering / back washing until the water clears up. Should clear in 1 to 3 days then run the filter on the usual 12 hour cycle.
GREEN WATER -- VERY GREEN ( pool cleaner not visible in the pool )
If the pump and filter have been out of order for some time or general neglect for some reason or one / some of the following : -- High pH -- Low total alkalinity -- Heavy rains -- Heavy swimming load -- Insufficient chemicals -- Clogged dirty filter -- Insufficient filtration
Do the following :
[[ Note : The idea is to remove as much algae as possible by flocculating and filtering and then to add chemicals to kill the rest of the algae.]]
1.Top up the pool water and make sure the pump and filter are in running order. 2.Pre-dissolve 3 packs of "Pool Magic Alum powder"per 50 000 liters pool water, in warm water and distribute this mixture around the pool. Run the pump for 10 minutes to thourughly mix the alum powder in the water then stop the pump. Allow the water to settle overnight or for at least 12 hours. 3.The following day slowly vacuum the settled sediment to waste using a vacuum sweeper (8 wheeler). 4. Open up the sand filter and manualy wash the sand ( open backwash the filter ) or change the sand if it is older than 3 or 4 years. 5. Adjust the pH to between 7.0 and 7.4. ----- Preferably 7.0. 6. Adjust the total alkalinity to between 60 and 120 ppm. 7. Add three packs of "Pool Magic Monthly treatment"(for every 50 000 to 60 000 liters of water) to the weir with the 'now clean' filter running on 'filter'. 8. Filter continuously for 24 hours, do a normal backwash, filter for another 24 hours, backwash again, and continue this filtering / backwashing until the water clears up. Then run the filter on the usual 12 hour cycle. 9. If the water is still green after 3 days add two more Pool Magic packs per 60 000 liters of water. 10. If after another 3 days the water is still not clear then repeat steps 1 to 6, and step 8.
DIRTY OR GREY LOOKING POOL WALLS AND FLOOR.
Could be a build-up of scale over a period of time. Could be a old swimming pool. Could be a slow build-up due to a constantly high TDS. ( High amount of dissolved solids from borehole water, municipal water or inadequate filtration.) Could be TDS drop out. This normally happens rapidly or overnight and commonly affects fibreglass, painted or vinyl pools, and is due mostly to low calcium hardness in the water or grossly unbalanced water. Commonly occurs after lots of rain because the rain has no calcium and the calcium hardness (content) of the water drops below a break point. Note : Where large amounts of granular chlorine are constantly added to the pool this problem seldom occurs because 30% of that chlorine is calcium. BUT it is cheaper to buy one bag of calcium flakes twice a year for your fibreglass, painted or vinyl pool. In marbelite pools there is normaly an excess of calcium and TDS drop out is rare in them.
Whatever the reason the treatment is the same.
Do the following :
1.Top up the pool so that the walls can get cleaned up to the top. 2.Thoroughly backwash the sand filter, then set the multiport valve on to BY-PASS or RECYCLE. If you don't the dirt from the filter will wash into the pool !!! 3.Pour 3 containers (3 X 2.5 Liters) of "Pool Acid Micro" (wear goggles) very slowly and carefully into the weir while the pump is running (on by-pass). If "Pool Acid Micro" is not available then you can use 5 containers (5 X 5 Liters) of ordinary pool acid. Try and get the makes that are marked 30% strength, as some pool acids have as much as 4 litres of water mixed with 1 litre of acid. ( This amount of acid is to treat an average 50 000 to 60 000 litre pool -- use more for larger and less for smaller pools.) 4. Set the multiport valve on 'FILTER' (the pool cleaner can be left in the pool) and pour one pack of 'Alum powder Mini ' into the weir. 5. Allow the filter to run continuously for 24 hours, then backwash, then add another 'Alum powder Mini' into the weir. 6. Repeat step 5. 7. After the filter has run a total of 3 X 24 hours set the filter back to the normal 12 hour cycle. [[ Note : The pool walls should have cleared during the first 24 hour period. If not then not enough acid was added to cope with that work load, add one more 'Pool Acid Micro'as in step 3, and continue the following day with steps 4, 5 and 6 ]] 8. Adjust the pH to between 7.0 and 7.4. ----- Preferably 7.0. 9. Adjust the total alkalinity to between 60 and 120 ppm. 10. Add one pack of "Pool Magic Monthly treatment"(for every 50 000 to 60 000 liters of water) to the weir with the filter running on 'filter'. [[ Note : There were three main steps here, the first step was to clean the pool walls and floor. The second step was to clean the water. The third step was to correct the water balance. If the water is not cleaned and / or the water is not balanced then the darkness may re-appear.
All pools at some stage or other get stains of some sort. These stains can be from leaves, calcium deposits, rust, black algae, copper or chlorine reactions, TDS dropout, etc. Chemical cleaning of pools, like 'acid washing' of the old days, can only remove stains that are due to something sticking to the pool surface. It can not remove stains that occur within the marbelite or black algae root stains. For black algae roots, Pool Magic and time has been found to be the best method.
Chemical cleaning procedure:
1.Top up the pool so that the walls can get cleaned up to the top. 2.Thoroughly backwash the sand filter, then set the multiport valve on to BY-PASS or RECYCLE and switch on the pump. If you don't do this, the dirt from the filter will wash into the pool !!! 3.Pour 3 containers (3 X 2. 5 Liters) of "Pool Acid Micro" (wear goggles) very slowly and carefully into the weir while the pump is running (on by-pass). If "Pool Acid Micro" is not available then you can use 5 containers (5 X 5 Liters) of ordinary pool acid. Try and get the makes that are marked 30% strength, as some pool acids have as much as 4 litres of water mixed with 1 litre of acid. ( This amount of acid is to treat an average 50 000 to 60 000 litre pool -- use more for larger and less for smaller pools.) 4.This next step is for very old calcium stains or old stains and not normally necessary otherwise. After adding the acid in step 3, wait 5 minutes then add 20 litres of hydrogen peroxide slowly and carefully into the weir. NOTE: Acids and hydrogen peroxides MUST NEVER BE MIXED !!! All warnings on containers must be strictly noted and full protective clothing as well as goggles must be worn when handling these chemicals in case of splashes, spills, etc.
5. Allow the pump to continue running (on by-pass) until all the stains and marks have been removed. This could take from 1 to 3 days. 6. After the cleaning process is completed, dissolve 2 kg of alum powder in water and pour this completely dissolved mixture evenly into the pool with the pump still running on by-pass. 7. Now the pH and Total alkalinity will be very low because of all the acid that was added and must be corrected by pouring approximately 4kg of bicarbonate of soda or Total Alkalinity Increaser directly into the pool water. The Total Alkalinity Increaser will automatically raise the total alkalinity and pH to a reasonable level and further adjustment and testing can be done later. 8. Now switch the pump off and allow the water to calm overnight ( at laest 10 hours ). During this time the dissolved alum powder will collect most of the dirt from the water and settle it on the pool floor. 9. Using an "8 wheel vacuum sweeper" slowly vacuum the settled sediment from the pool floor to "waste". Do this slowly so that the sediment doesn't float up into the water. If too much sediment is disturbed allow it to settle again and repeat the vacuuming later. 10. Adjust the pH to between 7.0 and 7.4. ----- Preferably 7.0 and.. 11. ..Adjust the total alkalinity to between 60 and 120 ppm by using Total Alkalinity Increaser. 12. Add one pack of "Pool Magic Monthly treatment"(for every 50 000 to 60 000 liters of water) to the weir with the filter running on 'filter'. [[ Note : There were three main steps here, the first step was to clean the pool walls and floor. The second step was to clean the water. The third step was to correct the water balance. If the water is not cleaned and / or the water is not balanced then the marks may re-appear.
A Quick clean for fresh or 'not so bad' stains eg. Chlorine black stains, TDS dropout, Light blue copper stains, Light - brown calcium deposits, etc.
Do the following : 1.Top up the pool so that the walls can get cleaned up to the top. 2.Thoroughly backwash the sand filter, then set the multi port valve on to BY-PASS or RECYCLE. If you don't the dirt from the filter will wash into the pool !!! 3.Pour 3 containers (3 X 2.5 Liters) of "Pool Acid Micro" (wear goggles) very slowly and carefully into the weir while the pump is running (on by-pass). If "Pool Acid Micro" is not available then you can use 5 containers (5 X 5 Liters) of ordinary pool acid. Try and get the makes that are marked 30% strength, as some pool acids have as much as 4 litres of water mixed with 1 litre of acid. ( This amount of acid is to treat an average 50 000 to 60 000 litre pool -- use more for larger and less for smaller pools.) 4. Set the multiport valve on 'FILTER' (the pool cleaner can be left in the pool) and pour one pack of 'Alum powder Mini ' into the weir. 5. Allow the filter to run continuously for 24 hours, then backwash, then add another 'Alum powder Mini' into the weir. 6. Repeat step 5. 7. After the filter has run a total of 3 X 24 hours set the filter back to the normal 12 hour cycle. [[ Note : The pool walls should have cleared during the first 24 hour period. If not then not enough acid was added to cope with that work load, add one more 'Pool Acid Micro'as in step 3, and continue the following day with steps 4, 5 and 6 ]] 8. Adjust the pH to between 6.8 and 7.0 9. Adjust the total alkalinity to between 60 and 120 ppm. 10. Add one pack of "Pool Magic Monthly treatment"(for every 50 000 to 60 000 liters of water) to the weir with the filter running on 'filter'.
If you properly maintain the water many common problems may never arise because most of them are either caused by inadequate filtration or incorrect water balance. However many forms of algae, and stains may occur despite your best efforts.
Algae Algae commonly occur in 5 general forms: a/ Free floating green algae; b/Green algae; c/Blue-green algae; d/ Mustard algae; e/ Black algae.
Algae is one of the most persistent forms of plant life. It is very resourceful and thrives in sunlight, warmth and high pH. It can cover an entire pool surface within hours, and once established can foster the growth of bacteria and become very difficult to remove from your pool. Early warning signs are a/ Slippery pool surfaces; b/ Spots on the walls; c/ Green or cloudy water. By keeping the pH at correct levels and compensating for heavy swimming loads, wind and rain the chances of algae growth are minimised. Algae is easier to kill when immature, and gets harder to remove the longer it has been allowed to grow. When killing algae enough algaecide must be used to kill ALL the algae or it will grow back at an astonishing rate.and you have to start all over again. Also during treatment the filter must be running continuously and backwashed often to remove the dead algae, or the dead algae may rot and in turn form fertilizer for the other algae. When algae grows in groups or colonies, it should be brushed regularly during treatment. The reason for this is that the dead outside colonies protect the inside colonies from the algaecide. By brushing off the dead colonies you expose the inner colonies to the algaecide and will progressively kill the entire colony.
Stains.
Calcium deposits -- light brown or biscuit colored stains.
Stains from a build up of calcium deposits can form slowly over a period of time and build up until they look ugly. Calcium deposits can come from top up water high in calcium or from granular chlorine where the calcium content is as high as 30%. Because chlorine is a powerful bleaching agent, these and other stains are normally bleached and largely invisible. When the stain gets too heavily built up or you stop using chlorine the stain becomes more visible.
Mineral / metal deposits -- various colours.
Most water sources contain relatively large amounts of dissolved iron, manganese, and a multitude of other dissolved salts. While these salts remain dissolved in the water they remain invisible and do not seem to be a problem. However these dissolved salts can come out of solution and cause stains on the pool surfaces. Generally a high pH, low total alkalinity, or high dissolved salt content can allow staining to occur.
Chemical reactions -- gray, black, yellow.
There are many types of paints and pool coatings available. They contain hardners and colouring agents so that once applied they can dry quickly, hard and look good. Some pool chemicals can react with the paint chemicals to produce all sorts of stains. More so when the pools have been newly painted. Fortunately almost all stains are very easy and inexpensive to remove
Stains that seep through the marbelite.
Sometimes the re-enforcing wire used in the construction of the pool may rust. This then results in the rust marks becoming visible in the pool. These rust marks may appear in a regular pattern like a grid of squares or evenly spaced lines. To rectify this type of problem the pool has to be re-lined with fibre glass, epoxy, paint, etc. In rare cases a pool may develop stains or marks as a result of a high water level in the ground in which the pool is built. A quick test may be done by trying to scrape away a portion of the stain with a scraper or sharp metal object. If the stain can not be removed by scraping, this may indicate that the stain is seeping in through the pool walls. However it may be difficult to determine the exact source of the stain. In a practical example a pool may be cleared of stains by high powered chemical stain removal. Here the stains are leached right out of the marbelite and the pool looks like new again. Only to find that 4 or 5 months later the exact same stains come back again. This could indicate that the stains are seeping through the marbelite and the best solution would be to re-line the pool with fibreglass or a good quality epoxy or paint.
Stains that appear when chlorine is no longer used.
Chlorine is a powerful bleaching agent and when it is replaced by non-chlorine pool products the regular bleaching of the pool surface may no longer happen. Coupled with this, high tech water treatments may also make the water so clear that on a calm day one can clearly see a pin size object in the deep end. As a result of truly crystal clear water, a very low impurity (TDS) content and lack of bleaching, the pool may show up a slightly mottled surface or calcium deposit stains, etc. Treatment for these stains may vary according to their age and nature.
Stains from algae and scale.
When algae colonies have formed in pools their roots grow into the pool surface and cause damage. If allowed to progress the damage becomes more extensive and dark grey stains may be left behind when the algae is removed. Scale may form on the pool surfaces as a result of high pH, high total alkalinity and or high calcium. Scale is easily removed but if left long enough it will become extremely hard and resistant. Then specialised treatment is needed.
Brown stains on pool walls and floor (TDS dropout).
Brown stains on pool walls and floors commonly occur in fibreglass, painted or vinyl pools if the calcium hardness drops below 200 parts per million. Calcium hardness should be checked and raised if necessary every 6 months. Calcium hardness can be tested with a 5 in 1 test strip or at a pool shop --- do not let them sell you hundreds of rands worth of unnecessary chemicals!!! Just test the water.
When pool owners use lots of granular chlorine in their pools they do not easily get a low calcium problem because 30% of the chlorine they use is CALCIUM, and therefore they might land up with too much calcium in the pool which then causes scaling and deposits to build up on the pool walls and floor.
Pool Magic products are high quality, easy to use products and all have detailed information on what they do and how to use them. They are always full strength and never diluted so that the pool owner gets best value for money. They are backed by "THE POOL CARE HELPLINE" so that any pool owner can get free advice on pool problems by making a simple phone call.
Name: Pool Magic 5 in 1 This product was practically tested in South African pools from 1994 to 1998. During this time it’s formula was changed and improved many times over to eventually produce a world class product at an affordable price. One 400g pack of Pool Magic 5 in 1 treats up to 60 000 liters of water for 4 to 6 weeks.
Uses : Kills GREEN, BLACK, MUSTARD and BLUE-GREEN ALGAE and helps prevent algae re-growth after rains. Is a powerful FUNGICIDE. Kills BACTERIA as shown in SABS test results. Does not disturb WATER BALANCE and promotes CRYSTAL CLEAR WATER. Makes pool water GENTLE ON EYES AND SKIN. Makes pool water SAFE to backwash onto GARDEN PLANTS.
Benefits : One application once a month REPLACES the following : Green, Black and Mustard ALGAECIDES. Filter FLOCCULANTS to keep the water crystal clear. FUNGICIDES where applicable. 80% Of CHLORINE requirement in summer. Use no chlorine in winter. Greatly reduces pool chemical needs and costs. Reduces TIME spent on swimming pool maintenance. Makes the pool water gentle on HUMANS, PETS and GARDENS. ___________________
Name : Pool Magic Stain remover.
Uses : Removes stains in swimming pools caused by metals, minerals, leaves, etc.
Benefits : Can REMOVE the most stubborn STAINS within MINUTES. EASY to apply --- simply sprinkle onto stains, watch them DISAPPEAR. SAVES costs, no need to empty pool water or expensive specialised labour. Can make a tired looking pool LOOK LIKE NEW. __________________
Name : Pool Magic Total Alkalinity Increaser.
Uses : Raises the total alkalinity in pools, enhances pool chemical ECONOMY. Stabilises pH and PREVENTS corrosion and corrects water balance.
Benefits : Save money on pool chemicals. Pool walls, pool pump, fittings, etc. last longer without corrosion.
A correct water balance promotes a problem-free pool and reduces time spent on pool maintenance. Prevents pH from rising above 8.3 if too much is added. __________________
Name : Pool Magic Microfilter.
Uses : Removes fine suspended matter that causes cloudy pool water.
Benefits : New improved formula removes INORGANIC and ORGANIC matter. Works in the FILTER and does not affect water balance. Very easy to apply and works QUICKLY and effectively.
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Name : Pool Magic Calcium flakes.
Uses : Raise the calcium hardness in pool water.
Benefits: A correct water balance promotes a problem-free pool and reduces time spent on pool maintenance. Fibreglass, vinyl and painted pools are prone to calcium deficiencies in the rainy seasons, and the easiest way to correct this is by simply adding calcium flakes.
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Name : Pool Magic Alum Powder 2kg
Uses : A super - heavy duty flocculant to quickly remove mud, exessive algae, etc. from pool water.
Benefits : Very easy to use, and avoids expensive pool company costs. Where pools have been green for a long time, the alum powder quickly settles the ALGAE on the pool floor so that it can be vacumed out. Where the pool water is full of RUST (normally a very expensive problem) Pool Magic stain remover and alum powder make the pool LIKE NEW again. When heavy rains fill the pool with MUD, alum powder sorts it out.
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Name : Pool Magic Filter Sand Cleaner
Uses : Supercleans your filter sand easily without the filter being opened.
Benefits : Saves the cost of replacing filter sand. Makes the sand filter work better and longer. Quickly reduces filter related pool problems. 100 % Biodegradable. ______________________
Name : Pool Acid Micro
Uses : Lowers pH in swimming pools. Reduces total alkalinity when required.
Benefits : Triple concentrated, no water added. 3 times stronger than ordinary pool acid. Light weight.
NOTE: CHLORINE, CHLORINE GAS AND POOL MAGIC
The ideal way to sanitise a pool is to use Pool Magic 5 in 1 and small amounts of chlorine. WHY ?
Typically, chlorine in pool water will escape in the form of chlorine gas under suitable circumstances. Chlorine gas is heavier than air and tends to float just above the pool water on a windless day. Swimmers breathe the air just above the water and this is the chlorine rich air that has been claimed to cause so many problems in humans.
To make matters worse, when clorine needs to do all the work that is required in a pool like : Oxidizing, sanitizing, killing algae and generally keeping the water looking good as much as 3ppm of chlorine is needed and regular shock treatment (6ppm) to eliminate chloramines. This high amount of chlorine is expensive, very unhealthy (higher chlorine levels produce more chlorine gas) and unnecessary!
Pool Magic 5 in 1 takes care of most of the work needed in a pool. It clears the water, kills most forms of algae, flocculates and coagulates microscopic particles to remove food for bacteria and even helps control the pH. Generally the ingredients of Pool Magic also control bacteria but do not kill it fast enough to pass stringent tests. It also keeps water soft and balanced. All that is left for chlorine to do is kill any bacteria that may be left or newly introduced. At concentrations as low as 0.4ppm it will achieve this. CHLORINE AND SALT WATER SWIMMING POOLS Chlorine as we know it is used to sanitise pool water. Chlorine is supplied in many forms for use in swimming pools, here are some examples: WHY IS POOL MAGIC SO GOOD? |
